I have been testing sizes as my bras no longer seem to fit me. A good excuse to make more!
This is another Malborough bra using a rigid cotton and a stretch lace. The fabric was intended as a muslin test, but it is so pretty, i made a set of briefs too.
I used a powernet on the back of the brief to compensate for the rigid feature fabric which worked well. This matches the bra back also.
No lining in the bra on this one.
Brief pattern: Merckwaerdigh E-MIX30 C, size medium
bra pattern: Orange Lingerie malborough, size 36D
I’m making some new bra sets for myself and my girls.
The following completed set features one of my favourites: the Marlborough pattern by Orange Lingerie.
The pink fabric is a stretch synthetic with a barely perceptible flower print that has been in my stash for a long time. An on line purchase that went wrong…. The lace is a stretch probably from Rathdowne fabrics and fixings were purchased on line from Boobytraps.
Brief patterns: The briefs are two different patterns: The lace version is Merckwaerdigh E-Mix30 C made in a size medium. The plain briefs are Cloth Habit’s Watson bikini , size small.
Bra pattern: t Marlborough pattern by Orange Lingerie. Size 36D
This dress is from the Japanese pattern book ‘Drape Drape’ by Hisako Sato.
The pattern is offered in 3 sizes: S, M and L. I traced the large for a muslin fully expecting it to be still too small for me. (I’m 180cm/6′ tall – well outside of Japanese standard sizing!) I hoped that maybe one of my daughters might like to wear this version. No luck with that…
Once i had a muslin made, however i was able to make my own adjustments to it and redraft the pattern to fit me. It’s such a clever pattern, cut in a single piece.
I extended the torso by about 3″ and added an extra 2″ at the centre front. Below are the the adjusted pattern pieces (original on top).
The skirt I kept as original and added to the new torso.
Voila two more gather drape dresses – both in a T-shirt knit in my size.
I used a large piece of grey parachute type fabric for my second set of drop crotch pants.It’s definitely synthetic as it will not tolerate ironing – even on a low heat. I picked it up as a remnant about a year ago from Rathdowne Fabrics in Brunswick, Melbourne.
I made a couple of changes to my blue cotton muslin set: I changed the pockets, cutting them deeper to be more generous and tying them into the waistband more significantly by extending the top of them to the closure at the front.
I stole the pocket pattern from the Bermuda Shorts in the same Burda magazine: Issue 5/2010 pattern 133.
Same front seam detail in the leg. Same welt pocket at the back.
I did add another 1/4″ to the inner legs on both front and back pattern pieces this time (total 1/2″inch total) as the first pair where tight on the calf. However in retrospect, the tight calf is key to the look of these pants and I think I will remove it again as they just look like baggy pants without.
I managed to get the welt seam pocket working in the back this time using Google as an instruction resource. This particular method required hand stitching the welt in place at the end which is certainly not as durable as the Burda method…it’s come apart already and will need restitching. It will hold my loose change however, unlike my previous version!
I’ll have to give the Burda method another go.
Again these pants are super comfortable and getting a lot of wear. The parachute fabric is very light and doesn’t drape as well as I anticipated resulting in a slightly more balloony crotch than a drop crotch which is not so flattering. I love the colour of these, but probably prefer my navy blue cotton muslin.
Pattern: Self drafted with help from Burda issue 5/2010 patterns 116 Sarouel trousers and 133 Bermuda Shorts
I am loving Orange Lingerie‘s patterns. I’ve made several of the Malborough and find these bras so comfortable and an excellent fit.
I was inspired by Novita’s coral floral set to use lace in the upper cup and remove the fabric straps from this bra and replace with regular elastic straps.
I have made two versions of the Boylson now: one lined in foam, one without, both in a rigid fabric. Both were a disaster in my size with the upper cup completely flattening out the breast. The cups fit but look terrible! This version has been made in a stretch lycra with foam lined cups. They have been much more successful.
I used emerald erin‘s satin stitch technique to join the foam cups. Where it worked, it looked great, but I had a lot of skipped stitches despite using a stretch needle. I tried a universal needle too, but it wasn’t any better, so I’m not sure what the solution is….
I sewed a little reclaimed black bow onto the top of the bridge. The frame and bridge are lined with a black 20% dernier tricot lining and black powernet is used for the backstrap. Both were from Rathdowne Fabrics. The black lace upper cup is zigzagged to the foam cup.
I folded the underarm elastic over to form the loop for the ring and placed a little piece of satin ribbon with in the fold to stabilize it. This tip came from Cloth Habit. So many amazing bloggers have inspired and informed my bra making journey! Three in this one post! A huge thank you to you all!
The Thong is the Ohh lulu pattern again. Very quick and easy to make and comfortable. The pattern is designed to use fold over elastic. To use the picot elastic I added the width of the elastic (about 1/4″ not including the picot edge) to all the edges to which this elastic was to be applied to allow for finishing.
Lycra was from GJs Discount Fabric. All notions from MRecht Accessories. I can’t remember where I got the stretch lace…
Patterns: orange lingerie’s boylston bra. Size 36E. (38DD with band and frame reduced by 1/2″) ohh lulu 1308 gia thong Size medium
I wore out my favourite navy blue Scanlon & Theodore drop-crotch pants. They were made of 100% viscose and after only 2 years, the fabric just disintegrated at the seams. Disappointing as they were expensive. I resolved that I would trace the pattern off them and make my own pair…. I ended up using a Burda Magazine pattern as the base and refined the details to match my fave Scanlon pair.
I had a blue cotton bedsheet in my stash and used it to make a muslin to be on the safe side. The Burda pattern I based them on was No.116 Sarouel Trousers in the 5/2010 issue for the waistband and pocket details, but traced the seams of my Scanlon pair to get the leg shape that I loved/missed.
I took out all the front pleats and narrowed the leg leaving the crotch depth as per the pattern. I also introduced the cool top-stitched seam detail that featured in the front leg of the Scanlon pair.
The pocket details were great on the Burda Pattern with inseam pockets on the sides and a single welt pocket on the back RHS.
I thought I’d done the pocket so well, particularly as the Burda instructions were very confusing. They look great from the outside, however when I wore them I discovered that my hand went straight through behind the pocket. No putting any loose change in there….
The side pockets could have been a bit more generous, but overall I’m very happy with my muslin. They’re getting a good work out. I definitely need another pair.
I made another Ohh lulu thong in size medium because I love wearing this set!
I’m normally an Australian size 12 in underwear and these are definitely a better fit. They are the pair on top with the size large underneath. They are approx 2cm narrower at the hip when laid one on top of the other. I also widened the decorative side elastic on the top edge by 1/4″ because I had forgotten to add this allowance for the elastic for the first pair.
The pattern is designed to use fold over elastic. To use the picot elastic I added the width of the elastic (about 1/4″ not including the picot edge) to all the edges to which this elastic was to be applied to allow for finishing.