Another pair of drop-crotch pants

I used a large piece of grey parachute type fabric for my second set of drop crotch pants.It’s definitely synthetic as it will not tolerate ironing – even on a low heat. I picked it up as a remnant about a year ago from Rathdowne Fabrics  in Brunswick, Melbourne.

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I made a couple of changes to my blue cotton muslin  set: I changed the pockets, cutting them deeper to be more generous and tying them into the waistband more significantly by extending the top of them to the closure at the front.

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I stole the pocket pattern from the Bermuda Shorts in the same Burda magazine: Issue 5/2010 pattern 133.

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Same front seam detail in the leg. Same welt pocket at the back.

I did add another 1/4″ to the inner legs on both front and back pattern pieces this time (total 1/2″inch total) as the first pair where tight on the calf. However in retrospect, the tight calf is key to the look of these pants and I think I will remove it again as they just look like baggy pants without.

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I managed to get the welt seam pocket working in the back this time using Google as an instruction resource. This particular method required hand stitching the welt in place at the end which is certainly not as durable as the Burda method…it’s come apart already and will need restitching. It will hold my loose change however, unlike my previous version!

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I’ll have to give the Burda method another go.

Again these pants are super comfortable and getting a lot of wear. The parachute fabric is very light and doesn’t drape as well as I anticipated resulting in a slightly more balloony crotch than a drop crotch which is not so flattering. I love the colour of these, but probably prefer my navy blue cotton muslin.

Pattern: Self drafted with help from Burda issue 5/2010 patterns 116 Sarouel trousers and 133 Bermuda Shorts

 

Black snakeskin set

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I am loving Orange Lingerie‘s patterns. I’ve made several of the Malborough and find these bras so comfortable and an excellent fit.

I was inspired by Novita’s coral floral set to use lace in the upper cup and remove the fabric straps from this bra and replace with regular elastic straps.

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I have made two versions of the Boylson now: one lined in foam, one without, both in a rigid fabric. Both were a disaster in my size with the upper cup completely flattening out the breast. The cups fit but look terrible! This version has been made in a stretch lycra with foam lined cups. They have been much more successful.

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I used emerald erin‘s satin stitch technique to join the foam cups. Where it worked, it looked great, but I had a lot of skipped stitches despite using a stretch needle.  I tried a universal needle too, but it wasn’t any better, so I’m not sure what the solution is….

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I sewed a little reclaimed black bow onto the top of the bridge. The frame and bridge are lined with a black 20% dernier tricot lining and black powernet is used for the backstrap. Both were from Rathdowne Fabrics. The black lace upper cup is zigzagged to the foam cup.

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I folded the underarm elastic over to form the loop for the ring and placed a little piece of satin ribbon with in the fold to stabilize it. This tip came from Cloth Habit. So many amazing bloggers have inspired and informed my bra making journey! Three in this one post! A huge thank you to you all!

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The Thong is the Ohh lulu pattern again. Very quick and easy to make and comfortable. The pattern is designed to use fold over elastic. To use the picot elastic I added the width of the elastic (about 1/4″ not including the picot edge) to all the edges to which this elastic was to be applied to allow for finishing.

Lycra was from GJs Discount Fabric. All notions from MRecht Accessories. I can’t remember where I got the stretch lace…

Patterns: orange lingerie’s boylston bra. Size 36E. (38DD with band and frame reduced by 1/2″)  ohh lulu 1308 gia thong Size medium

Sarouel pants – blue cotton muslin

I wore out my favourite navy blue Scanlon & Theodore drop-crotch pants. They were made of 100% viscose and after only 2 years, the fabric just disintegrated at the seams. Disappointing as they were expensive. I resolved that I would trace the pattern off them and make my own pair…. I ended up using a Burda Magazine pattern as the base and refined the details to match my fave Scanlon pair.

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I had a blue cotton bedsheet in my stash and used it to make a muslin to be on the safe side. The Burda pattern I based them on was No.116 Sarouel Trousers in the 5/2010 issue for the waistband and pocket details, but traced the seams of my Scanlon pair to get the leg shape that I loved/missed.

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I took out all the front pleats and narrowed the leg leaving the crotch depth as per the pattern. I also introduced the cool top-stitched seam detail that featured in the front leg of the Scanlon pair.

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The pocket details were great on the Burda Pattern with inseam pockets on the sides and a single welt pocket on the back RHS.

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I thought I’d done the pocket so well, particularly as the Burda instructions were very confusing. They look great from the outside, however when I wore them I discovered that my hand went straight through behind the pocket. No putting any loose change in there….

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The side pockets could have been a bit more generous, but overall I’m very happy with my muslin. They’re getting a good work out. I definitely need another pair.

 

 

 

Another floral thong

 

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I made another Ohh lulu thong in size medium because I love wearing this set!

I’m normally an Australian size 12 in underwear and these are definitely a better fit. They are the pair on top with the size large underneath. They are approx 2cm narrower at the hip when laid one on top of the other. I also widened the decorative side elastic on the top edge by 1/4″ because I had forgotten to add this allowance for the elastic for the first pair.

The pattern is designed to use fold over elastic. To use the picot elastic I added the width of the elastic (about 1/4″ not including the picot edge) to all the edges to which this elastic was to be applied to allow for finishing.

Floral bra set

This is my first post. I aim to record my makes for a year to see if it helps me remember and learn from my mistakes as well as keep track of my production.

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So I think this is the 15th bra I have made…. And the first that I can say I’m truly happy with. So happy in fact that i have made matching panties to go with it.

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The bra pattern is the Malborough from Orange Lingerie.

I have made both the Marlborough and the Boylston and have had mixed results. Success seems to be wholly dependent on the fabric used. I have made both in a size 36E (38DD with band and frame reduced by 1/2″).

The Marlborough I have made in both lined rigid and lined stretch lace. The lined rigid lace version has become my favourite bra. The stretch gives a great comfortable bra but with less support and a rounded shape. A version I made in unlined rigid silk was a disaster with the powerbar cutting into the breast and creating a weird kind of ‘quad boob’ effect 😦

This, my most recent version of the Malborough I have made with a unlined rigid fabric and stretch lace uppercup. The fit is very firm and supportive (which i like) and the cups are a great shape; a sort of a rounded point….

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The band is a white powernet. I had to unpick and redo the elastic under the arm on both sides as it gaped when completed. I really had to stretch it whilst stitching along the length of the rigid fabric and also trimmed back the band in an attempt to extend the length that the fabric had to stretch and reduce gaping.

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Reminder to self to check the width of the bra band against the hook & eye tabs before stitching the strap elastic in place! Both sides I had to unpick and reattach after trimming back the band to fit. Very boring.

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This entire set was stitched with a universal needle. No skipped stitches! Must be the rigid fabric.

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The panties are the Ohh Lulu thong in a large. I love this pattern – they are super comfortable – however I think I’ll make them again in a medium as whilst they fit, they seem a little loose.

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I love this set! They fit beautifully and are so pretty! The rigid floral fabric is a silky scrap I bought in Paris so many years ago when I lived there. It has always been too small to do anything with and I am so pleased that I have found a purpose for it! There is still enough for another set of panties and maybe even another bra!