Another pair of drop-crotch pants

I used a large piece of grey parachute type fabric for my second set of drop crotch pants.It’s definitely synthetic as it will not tolerate ironing – even on a low heat. I picked it up as a remnant about a year ago from Rathdowne Fabrics  in Brunswick, Melbourne.

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I made a couple of changes to my blue cotton muslin  set: I changed the pockets, cutting them deeper to be more generous and tying them into the waistband more significantly by extending the top of them to the closure at the front.

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I stole the pocket pattern from the Bermuda Shorts in the same Burda magazine: Issue 5/2010 pattern 133.

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Same front seam detail in the leg. Same welt pocket at the back.

I did add another 1/4″ to the inner legs on both front and back pattern pieces this time (total 1/2″inch total) as the first pair where tight on the calf. However in retrospect, the tight calf is key to the look of these pants and I think I will remove it again as they just look like baggy pants without.

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I managed to get the welt seam pocket working in the back this time using Google as an instruction resource. This particular method required hand stitching the welt in place at the end which is certainly not as durable as the Burda method…it’s come apart already and will need restitching. It will hold my loose change however, unlike my previous version!

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I’ll have to give the Burda method another go.

Again these pants are super comfortable and getting a lot of wear. The parachute fabric is very light and doesn’t drape as well as I anticipated resulting in a slightly more balloony crotch than a drop crotch which is not so flattering. I love the colour of these, but probably prefer my navy blue cotton muslin.

Pattern: Self drafted with help from Burda issue 5/2010 patterns 116 Sarouel trousers and 133 Bermuda Shorts

 

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Sarouel pants – blue cotton muslin

I wore out my favourite navy blue Scanlon & Theodore drop-crotch pants. They were made of 100% viscose and after only 2 years, the fabric just disintegrated at the seams. Disappointing as they were expensive. I resolved that I would trace the pattern off them and make my own pair…. I ended up using a Burda Magazine pattern as the base and refined the details to match my fave Scanlon pair.

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I had a blue cotton bedsheet in my stash and used it to make a muslin to be on the safe side. The Burda pattern I based them on was No.116 Sarouel Trousers in the 5/2010 issue for the waistband and pocket details, but traced the seams of my Scanlon pair to get the leg shape that I loved/missed.

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I took out all the front pleats and narrowed the leg leaving the crotch depth as per the pattern. I also introduced the cool top-stitched seam detail that featured in the front leg of the Scanlon pair.

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The pocket details were great on the Burda Pattern with inseam pockets on the sides and a single welt pocket on the back RHS.

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I thought I’d done the pocket so well, particularly as the Burda instructions were very confusing. They look great from the outside, however when I wore them I discovered that my hand went straight through behind the pocket. No putting any loose change in there….

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The side pockets could have been a bit more generous, but overall I’m very happy with my muslin. They’re getting a good work out. I definitely need another pair.